Document Type : Original Article
Authors
1
Department of cultural studies, institute for social and cultural studies. Tehran. Iran
2
Faculty of Arts and Architecture / Islamic Azad University, Central Tehran Branch
Abstract
Clothing in every land reflects the culture, civilization, and social structure of its society. The illustrations of the Shahnameh of Shah Tahmasp are among the most outstanding visual works of the Safavid era, depicting the social classes and hierarchical order of that period through attire. These miniatures also convey symbolic indicators of power, legitimacy, and collective identity. The present study aims to examine how power, rank, and social position of men are reflected in the clothing represented in the Shahnameh of Shah Tahmasp and to identify the clothing elements that signify class status. The main research question asks: how does men’s clothing in these miniatures reflect their power, rank, and social position, and what elements reveal class distinctions?
This study adopts a qualitative approach and employs the theoretical frameworks of Marx and Weber. Accordingly, out of 258 miniatures, seven were purposively selected based on the scope and diversity of social class representations within each image, prioritizing those that depicted the simultaneous presence of multiple social strata. Data were extracted from the selected miniatures and analyzed through thematic classification and typology of male garments to identify class-related and social indicators.
The findings revealed that clothing in these miniatures represents a clearly defined class hierarchy. The upper class, consisting of kings and high-ranking officials, is identified by crowns, robes, qabā, kalijeh, and golden belts. The middle class, including soldiers, clerics, Sufis, and scholars, is depicted wearing cloaks, trousers, and waist sashes. The lower classes, composed of craftsmen and the poor, are shown in simple garments made of coarse cotton without kalijeh or cloaks. Color, fabric, and decorative details played a significant role in expressing power, social position, and group identity.
In conclusion, men’s clothing in the miniatures of the Shahnameh of Shah Tahmasp provides a clear reflection of the class structure and social hierarchy of Safavid society. Clothing functioned not merely as a physical covering but as a symbolic medium to express power and class distinction. Studying it can therefore contribute to a deeper understanding of social order, collective identity, and visual culture in that historical context.
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